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November 02 Hi, Middle RiverI have to admit I owe the Minnesota town of Middle River a "hello" in writing.
The city with a population of more than 300 people is located in northwestern Minnesota, about one hour and 40 minutes from Grand Forks, North Dakota. It's one of those towns in middle America that most travelers simply speed through without paying any attention. And the only reason I was there was because my Chrysler broke down.
It happened in 2002. I was on my way back from Roseau, where I was sent to cover the flood. My car started acting strange as I got closer to Middle River, and pretty soon I saw smoke coming out of the hood. I pulled over, not sure what was wrong with the car or what I should do. A gentleman from behind pulled over to see if I was OK (I have to say I'm touched by the kindness of the people in rural Minnesota and North Dakota. Every time my car broke down, someone -- and often more than one driver -- stopped to offer help.). He looked under the hood and said it was the engine. It didn't look like the car could go anywhere. He helped me move the car off the road and to an autoshop close by, and told me that he was more than willing to give me a ride to the closest town with a hotel, which was 30 minutes away.
I wasn't sure -- it was getting dark, but I really, really wanted to go home and sleep in my own bed because I had been out working on the flood story the whole weekend before. The helpful gentleman left me his phone number and said he would be able to give me a ride before 8:30 p.m. I called up my editor for advice.
Why don't you wait at the bar there, he said, and I'll come get you after my shift is over. In the town where everyone knows everyone and almost everyone is Caucasian, I was not surprised that everyone in the bar gave me this look that demanded an explanation of who I was and why I was there. I ordered a beer (hoping this would help me blend in), and people started asking questions: Where are you from? What are you doing here? et cetera, et cetera. I told them that I was from China and that I worked for the Grand Forks paper. I was in the area to cover the flood in Roseau and my car just broke down. People gave me a sympathetic look, but it was apparent that they were interested by the fact that I was a reporter. "Will you say hi to Middle River in the paper?" one woman asked. Um... OK, I said slowly and sheepishly, not wanting to get into the detail that I was a reporter, not a columnist, and I could not just say anything I wanted in my stories. I wasn't even sure if she was serious about this request. But the woman seemed to be satisfied with my answer, and the conversation continued as I waited until midnight. I was touched by the sincerity and genuineness of the people there, and decided that if one day I got to write a column, I would say hi to Middle River. Somehow what happened in Middle River was tucked deep into my memories, and I forgot to say hi to the people there the only time I got to write columns -- when I visited my family in China in September of 2003. I only thought of Middle River again when talking to my friend J last month about my time in North Dakota, and it was then I decided that I needed to do what's long overdue. So here it goes: Hi, Middle River!! And I believe what I really owe is a big thank-you to the rural Americans who showed endless kindness toward a strange foreigner running around with a notebook, a pen ... and endless questions. :) __________
Middle River, Minn.: http://www.middle-river.com/. November 01 Red China "You are from China?" the gentleman sitting across the room stood up and started walking toward me after our conversation in an East Glacier, Mont., restaurant turned from the weather to where we came from. "Which China?" he said? I knew what he was getting at, but just said, "I'm from the northeastern PART of China." "Really? Red China?" he seemed even more interested. I haven't been asked that question or heard the phrase "Red China" since I left North Dakota in January 2004. Now more than three years later, as I traveled to Montana to see the Glacier National Park before moving back to China, I felt like I was revisiting rural America, where I spent the majority of my nine years in the U.S. My conversation with this gentleman, who told me he was a naturalist born and raised in Montana, started with the snowstorm in forecast. I was planning to spend the day at Glacier, but the potential winter storm made me nervous and I was debating whether to leave early. The naturalist was very helpful -- he gave me his newspaper, which carried a story about the winter weather, and talked about the different ways to get to Idaho, where I was headed, and the various possibilities of weather and road conditions. The "Red China" question came up after the weather discussion. And the gentleman proceeded to say how very few people from "Red China" get to visit the United States. I just had to correct him. Between 2000 and 2005, about 355,000 people immigrated from mainland China to the United States, and in the 1990s, about 460,000 Chinese immigrated to the U.S., according to official reports. How could this guy think that few Chinese get to come here, I said to myself, annoyed. Does he think the Cold War is still on? But on second thought, it's normal he holds the opinions he does -- with less than one percent (0.6 percent, to be exact) of Montana's total population of 944,000 being Asian, he probably hasn't seen many Chinese people, let alone talking to them and understanding China. It'll take many, many more Chinese visitors to the area to change his perception. October 31 妹妹 今天决定加入一旅行团,游温哥华岛。一大早等着上轮船的时候买了热巧克力和banana bread, 心情很好,回到旅游团的车里,刚坐下,发现前面一个大约4岁的小孩盯着我看。我不知道他什么意思,就回看了他一眼。不料,他伸出手来指着我,大叫: “妹妹!” 全车的人都把目光投向我,小孩的父母也转过来看,之后赶快把小朋友的手压下去。 郁闷! *********************************** 下了轮船,来到了著名的宝翠花园(Buchart Garden)。因为季节过了,游人稀少,而游人中又 有 百分之 八十是中国人,都是跟团而来。有的长的肥得流油的样子,好象人群中也经常有个李总、冯总之类的。 这些人当中,还真有挺恶心的。在公园里大声喧哗不说,还有的在不该上的地方 爬上爬下的。更有甚者,索性在圆中点根烟抽上,害得附近的游客皱着鼻子,尽量躲着他们。。 这些人见了 牌子就大声郎读,有一个女的还指着 一个写着“100% smoke free area"的牌子大声说, ”百分之百随便吸烟区。“ October 29 胜利大"逃荒"I hate travelers with a lot of luggage.
There are those who carry HUGE backpacks onto the plane and somehow always end up squeezing their way in front of me, making me feel that I'd be hit by their bags any time they turn to talk to their fellow travelers, who happen to be carrying equally big backpacks. There are also those who have multiple bags for their carry-on luggage, which often includes a slightly-torn paper gift bag, bulging plastic bags and sometimes humongous purses.
"Are they bringing their coffee machines when they vacation?" I often make snide remarks like that to myself when running into one of those travelers. After all, I usually have just one medium-sized backpack as a carry-on and no checked luggage at all, even if I'm on the road for two weeks. If I don't have three outfits a day, so be it.
But for the past few weeks, I've been one of these burdened travelers. I had decided to travel a little bit before moving back to China, so after purchasing a series of one-way tickets, I set out with two suitcases that each weighed at least 50 pounds (50 pounds is the limit) and two heavy carry-on bags. In them were all of my print photos from the past nine years, diaries, paper documents, my laptop, the various chargers and wires for the few electronic devices I own, and some winter clothes, which I need to wear as I would be traveling up north. I just felt more comfortable taking my photos and diaries with me than mailing them back to China.
Having an overweight bag on a journey with multiple flight plans is potentially expensive, but I'm lucky enough not to pay a single fine. First I flew from New York to Reno, and I decided to pay a few dollars to use the curbside check-in. The man handling the baggage was not even using a scale. He lifted the heavier bag of the two, which was overweight, then the 50-pound bag, and then the overweight bag again, and decided that both bags were OK. When I flew from Reno to Salt Lake City, the cab driver wouldn't stop complaining about my heavy bags. I looked at him and said, "You are late," (which he was) and he shut up after that. The ticketing agent was kind enough not to charge me anything for the bag that weighed 56 pounds. He just put a tag specifying the weight on it. And before my flight from Salt Lake City to Vancouver, I decided not to take any chances and tossed whatever I could -- sunscreens, soap, one or two pieces of clothing, etc.
Even then, I'm embarrassed with my two heavy carry-on bags. I'm embarrassed when other passengers had to wait five seconds as I dragged my bags through the isle.
Next time I fly, I'm taking one bag. :)
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Even though it's a pain to travel with a lot of luggage, I'm glad I got to see places I've always wanted to see before moving back. In the past, I've only traveled when I was on vacation or when I moved from one job to another. But never have I thought I'd enjoy traveling when I'm not working and have no potential work in sight. I never thought I'd be entitled to have any time off if I'm not working.
These past two weeks has been wonderful. I saw friends in Reno and Idaho falls, and toured the Grand Teton, Yellowstone and Glacier national parks. Almost everyone who knew of my plan said this is a bad time of the year to go see those parks, as snow might shut down roads in the mountains. We did experience quite a bit of snow in Grand Teton and Yellowstone, but I'm glad to report snow gives these parks a special beauty. I'm really glad I got to see these parks in the winter.
Traveling also provided a slow way of exiting the United States and gave me time to process my thoughts and feelings. Just a month ago, I was having all kinds of emotions in me about my decision to leave the country I lived in for nine years. I practically spent all my spare time thinking about those nine years. Now I feel calm and excited about the move back home.
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And what better transition to have than going to Vancouver. :) My friends here enjoy a few Chinese TV channels, use Chinese grocery stores and took me to dim sum this morning. I see Chinese faces everywhere. I think I'm going to be used to a Chinese life. heehee. (And I'll probably be writing the next blog entry in Chinese. ;-) October 19 Homecoming to RenoThe university I left more than six years ago looks and feels the same.
As I walk on campus, all my senses are brought back to life here years ago. Even the distinct smell in the library hasn't changed. There are more computers in the main library's open space, and on the wall, photos featuring people from around the world (one of them looked so much like my late grandmother that I would go to the library when I missed her) have been replaced by photos showing updates of the construction progress of a "knowledge center" on campus. The computer lab that I wrote about for my first published newspaper story is still there, but it's got a new neighbor now -- a closed-up area that's labeled "training lab."
Stacks of The New York Times and The Nevada Sagebrush, the campus newspaper, are left in the lobby. It's almost 10 a.m., but it seems that not many people have taken a copy of either paper. On the frontpage of the Sagebrush is a story that the Nevada university system's board of regents rejected one regent's proposal to allow faculty members to train on paid leave as police officers and then carry concealed weapon on campus. I guess the state remains crazy as ever. But then, which state hasn't had some wacky ideas?
Quite a few of my professors (including one of my favorite) have left the J-school, but it's nice seeing the remaining ones. After all, I couldn't even dream of getting into the journalism business without their help and support, let alone work for one of the most respected news organizations in the world.
One of the highlights of my Reno trip is seeing my friend J and his wife. I went to school with J and volunteered for his wife at a center serving people with disabilities in the summer of 2001. They are some of the kindest, smartest and coolest people I've met in the U.S. I still remember having Thanksgiving dinner with their families and hanging out at their house. I also remember learning how cool nonprofits are, how important volunteer work is and realizing that it is possible for people to make a living and live by their ideals at the same time.
Life has become ever more hectic for J and his wife, with the birth of their second daughter this year. But it's still nice to spend time with them. We looked at photos and talked about what's happened in our lives. It felt just like another weekend at their house. It felt as if I had never left Reno.
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I was disappointed, though, to find out that Into the Wild is not playing in Reno. I loved the book and really would have liked to watch the movie. October 16 Lazy dayI'm slowly recovering from the craziness and emotional turmoil in the past month, and enjoying some s-l-o-w time here in Reno.
Got up late and the friend I'm staying with had already gone to work. I putzed around the house and took some time to look at the fall foilage out the window. Then I went to do my laundry and checked my email between the loads. By noon, I was done with laundry and heated some leftover for lunch.
After that I called to set up some appointments to see friends and professors in the area -- I spent three lovely years in Reno for grad school but never returned in the six years since I graduated. I almost forgot how nice it is here. Yesterday, I met up with a couple of friends for coffee and had lunch with a close friend and a professor I LOVED. It was sunny, so we sat outside, with the mountains surrounding us. They were so closes, so grand and so beautiful -- something you could only have out West, I think.
My professor gave me a book of his columns. (I really admire him -- he's been practising journalism his whole life. Even though he teaches now, he writes a weekly column for one of the local papers. He's published 14 books, some collections of his columns. But his books are not like some of the books by self-absorbed wannabe writers we see on the market today. His books are the ones you want to take time to read.) And today, I actually had time to sit down and read his book. It seems that for the past few months, my reading had been limited to the rushed browsing of The New York Times articles just to have a vague idea of what's going on in the world. Now it's so nice to have time to do something I enjoy very much. ...
After reading, I took a walk. This is heaven. Why don't more people slow down?
October 13 ...I'm finally all packed and ready to go. It's been so busy this week that I have had little time to think. Everyday, I just get up, go to work, come home, work some more, sort my stuff and go to bed. Tonight I finished working at about nine with a couple of my colleagues and several students who participated in my program. It felt like a nice way to wrap up. I got home, took a shower and tried to fit everything into two suitcases and a backpack. I had to throw away a few more things (I feel like the whole month, all I did was getting rid of stuff.). Had Jack Johnson in the background the whole time I was packing, and now that I'm done with everything and have a chance to sit down and be by myself and listen to his music, I realize it's making me a little sad. A good friend sent me all of her Jack Johnson CDs after she got all the songs onto her iPod. Just listening to them brings back so many good memories. For a moment, I couldn't believe I'm leaving -- and leaving all of this behind. Then, I was amazed at how brave I was. Then I was sad I was leaving. Then I was excited about the new possibilities, about being closer to my family, about finally doing what I've been thinking for years. ... Then, I'm too tired to think or type or sit here. :) I guess life is like a TV series. As I put a period to my life in the U.S., I'm starting a new season -- a season in China. So this is not the end; this is "To be continued." October 09 最近实在太累,没力气自己写了...。 虽然听不太懂千千阙歌 徐徐回望 曾属于彼此的晚上 红红仍是你 赠我的心中艳阳 如流傻泪 祈望可体恤兼见谅 明晨离别你 路也许孤单得漫长 一瞬间 太多东西要讲 可惜即将在各一方 只好深深把这刻尽凝望 来日纵使千千阙歌 飘于远方我路上 来日纵使千千晚星 亮过今晚月亮 都比不起这宵美丽 亦绝不可使我更欣赏 Ah... 因你今晚共我唱 临行临别 才顿感哀伤的漂亮 原来全是你 令我的思忆漫长 何年何月 才又可今宵一样 停留凝望里 让眼睛讲彼此立场 当某天 雨点轻敲你窗 当风声 吹乱你构想 可否抽空想这张旧模样 来日纵使千千阙歌 飘于远方我路上 来日纵使千千晚星 亮过今晚月亮 都比不起这宵美丽 都洗不清今晚我所想 因不知那天再共你唱 今天我喜欢的诗再别康桥 作者:徐志摩 轻轻的我走了,正如我轻轻的来;
September 26 TestsI don't know how many tests I've gone through since coming back to the U.S. in mid-August. It seems every part of my body was getting checked for potential cancer cells and other abnormalities. But however many tests I've been through, I'm glad to say I passed them all. The last one was this morning, with my primary. And when I was told I was fine, the feeling was hard to describe. I've been feeling pretty good and usually believe that all the test results would come out fine. But there's always that question of "what if" in the back of my mind. And to be reassured like that was sooo nice. I felt like a student who got straight As in all her finals. There are many things to do in the coming weeks. But it's just so surreal that I'm one big step closer to getting closer to home. September 25 Gongoli maskOver the weekend, I visited the local art museum, which is free and has a free audio tour. I took the tour and one of the items in the African art collection left me a particularly deep impression: The Gongoli mask. It's a big wood black mask featuring an overly ugly face. The mask from Sierra Leone is usually used in performances whose function is to show the bad side of human nature: deformed, deceptive, undisciplined and antisocial. The expert talking in the audio tour says that in the communities where this kind of performances is done, people don't really have the concept of the ultimate good or the ultimate evil. In contrast, they accept that all human beings are flawed and have a dark side in them. If only we could all accept that. September 21 Saying goodbye is the hardest thingI've always loved moving to a new place. The excitement of the unknown, the potential for new opportunities and the possibilities for change attract me a great deal. But moving also comes with a great cost: friends. Each time I move, the friends I hang out with in the evenings and weekends become my long-distance friends. Inside jokes and laughters at dinner tables are reduced to hours of long-distance phone calls. Christmas and New Year's greetings are reduced to a mass email. Birthday celebrations become Borders gift cards ordered online. You see a fraction of these friends every year or every few years if you are lucky, and lose touch with many gradually. So when I moved again a year ago, I decided not to make any friends, knowing I'd move again. What's the point of making new friends, I said to myself, just to move away from them? But life is not that simple. You can't just shut the world away. People come into your life somehow. For different reasons you connect with people, even the ones who just provide services to you and do not ask for your friendship -- the hairdresser you see every six weeks, the banker you go to only when you have questions, the maid who cleans your apartment once a month (Ok, this one's made up). So I know when the time comes for me to say goodbye again, I'll be missing my new friends and the people who've entered my life in the past year. ... Sometimes I think of long lost friends from years ago, I think of those who made a great impact on me at one time, I think of the people I loved, and I ask myself, will I ever see them again? I guess moving isn't so bad after all. Maybe people come and go. Maybe every time I move, I lose touch with some of my friends. But I know deep down in my heart, I have a place for them. And I'll always have the wonderful memories -- even if they'll be fading over time. September 19 缅因之行 -2(Maine t rip -2)最近很忙,要处理的事情很多,头绪也很乱,所以心里开始有点烦。 晚上在家整理东西,突然想起了我在缅因登山的情形。想到自己当时连手带脚,胆战心惊地一个人爬到山顶的情形,忍不住就自己默默的笑了。 当时正值美国劳动节,我刚刚从国内出了一夏天的差回来,很累,很想出去散散心。选则了一直想去的缅因 Baxter State Park —— 户外运动的胜地。 星期六早晨选好了自己要走的trail (主要是因为书上说在这条trail上可以看到moose),但到了以后却被告知这条trail在早上6点时就已经人满了(为了给游客清静、接近自然的机会,和保护自然,公园管理人员统筹调度,每天只允许很少的人数去每一条路)。 他们告诉我去另一条trail,名叫The Owl,山有1100米高,来回好像是十一、二公里,难度中级,大概来回5小时,我是那天他们让去那条trail的最后一个人,后来才知道,那一天走那条trail的一共才8个人,算我在内6个人登上了峰顶。 每次我提起爬山,总是联想到蓝天、绿树和清新的空气,心中无限神往。可是其实每次过瘾的登山历程、每次能看到无限美景的历程,都是对身体的一种挑战和折磨。 拿这次登山说吧,出发的时候背了几瓶水,一个苹果、一个香蕉、一个李子和几块糖。前半个小时地势比较平,不累,我也兴致勃勃一边走,一边欣赏沿途的景色,还观察各种植物,照了无数的相。接下来的半个小时,坡度明显变陡,一路爬上去,就已经气喘吁吁。在一条小溪前停下歇脚,遇到了一个中年女子,一看就是个real hiker.她友好的告诉我上到山顶用了她两个半小时。 “你用两个半小时,我起码要爬三个半,”我心想。不敢耽搁,穿过小溪,继续赶路。想到5月份有一天爬了9个小时的山,到后来累的包里只剩一瓶水都嫌重,我这次不敢怠慢,赶快拿出包里水果开始吃,以减轻重量。 接下来的路越来越陡,有些地方要爬过接近我人高的大石头。我手脚并用,但没过多久,就开始想退。 还有多远啊?前面还有多少这种石头啊?上去了可怎么下来啊? 我心里越发的忐忑不安,腿已经开始发软,人也喘者粗气,大汗淋漓。身上的疼痛已经从腿转移到后背转移到肩膀、脖子。为了减少重量,水果吃光了,水也喝的只剩2瓶了。可是背包还重的象石头,我真恨不得把相机(小小的傻瓜相机)扔了。 但就是这样,我的脚下却没有停步。不知道为什么,我总是很好奇前面的路还有多难,自己到底能走多远。一路的景色也随着高度的增加越来越美。向上看是石头,向下看是树、远处的山和蓝蓝的湖水和河水。 后来在网上看到一个posting,说人们之所以喜欢爬山,就是因为到了一个高峰,又想看下一个高峰是什么样的,又期待征服下一个高峰。这样就会一直走下去。我觉得说得很有道理。 出发3小时15分钟后,我真的到了山顶。手已经因为扒石头扒的生疼,身上好像也没有舒服的地方。但丛山上俯瞰周围景色那种心旷神怡的感觉却是难以形容,脑子也觉得轻松和清醒了很多。真的没白受累啊。 September 15 The good old daysI was
driving home this evening, when all of a sudden four people -- each
carrying a box -- jumped out into the street in front of me. I was a
little surprised, but on closer look, they seemed to be foreign
students -- graduate students, most likely, who just finished shopping
in a computer store on the side of the road, and they were just trying
to cross in an area where there was no crosswalks. The scene brought me back to my days as a graduate student in the U.S. In those days, most of us came here on scholarships. Our families didn't have any money for us, so we had to make do with the monthly stipend (most of the time, less than $1,000) our universities gave us. We shared apartments with other graduate students, bought old furnitures and drove used cars. One time, a Chinese student I knew was pushing a shopping cart with a TV somebody threw away, when a police officer stopped him and asked him what he was doing (and where he got the TV, of course). He was trying to take the TV home, but he didn't have a car. I remember one girl telling me she ate chicken for a whole month and spent less than $30 on grocery that month. I remember this one guy taking three girls (myself included) to the laundromat and grocery stores each week, before we bought our own cars. And the traveling. One night, after spending the whole day touring UC-Berkeley, four of us crowded into one small hotel room and played cards the whole night to kill time. The next morning, we went to see the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. And that trip to Yosemite National Park. Five of us went in one car, while only two people could drive. Those were happy times. The days when just having my own bedroom seemed a luxury to some students. The days when I drove a beat-up Toyota station wagon that's of this weird, ugly yellow color and had huge dents and scratches on its doors. It used to overheat so much, that whenever I was on the road, I had to prepare water for myself AND the car. But the Toyota took me everywhere: my internships in eastern Washington state, North Dakota and Louisiana. That's 6,000 miles on the road, and it doesn't include the side trips I took. I often hear people in grad school complaining. They say they are sick and tired of going to school. They say they are sick and tired of having no money. They say they are ready to work and experience the real world. But for me, grad school was a lot of fun. I made friends, I traveled, and I was surrounded by smart people. The experience during that time more than made up for the lack of money. September 14 DeathThe mother of a friend of a friend died -- of cancer. I feel really, really sad and really, really awful. And I know the next thing I'm going to say will make a lot of people uncomfortable, but I still will say it: In a way, I feel somewhat relieved for that friend of my friend. It sounds insensitive and I probably don't have the right to comment, but if you've been through a major illness as I have, you would know how much the whole process can take out of a person and his/her loved ones. I was lucky -- I went through 14 months of grueling treatment and got better. But a lot of people didn't. I've seen two of my coworkers (at different jobs) die of cancer. Both had been on and off treatments for more than a year. Both had been told they were getting better at one point. Both fought until the last minute, trying every possible option they had and traveling long-distance to clinics where they hoped miracle could happen. But neither was able to escape death. The end was always painful. But in some situations, living didn't seem so much better. I've seen a lot of cancer patients' family members. Nobody wants his/her loved ones to die. But everyone sure looks tired from going through the ordeal with their loved ones. And after seeing all this and been through all that, I ask myself, at what point is life not worth living? How much suffering is too much? Tomorrow, I'll be going through two very important checkups, and I've been through many like these since my recovery. The results in the past year have always been reassuring -- they show that I'm enjoying good health. But I can't help but wonder, what if the results THIS TIME are bad? What if I get it again? My natural reaction is to fight like hell. That's who I am -- I'm "strong" (or at least pretend to be. To my doctors, I'm probably a wimp.). I am willing to go through pain to get better. But I also understand the limitations of medicine. And I understand why some people would want to give up, not because they don't value life, or they are not courageous enough. Sometimes, people are simply too tired -- physically and emotionally -- to carry on. So hang on to the beautiful life you have now, but if one day it gets too hard and you change your mind, I would understand. September 13 Blue skiesThe whole time I was walking home from work today, I kept looking up -- at the sky. It was soooooo blue, so clear, with a few white clouds -- like in a picture book. I can't help but wonder how much I'm going to miss the blue skies and clean air here when I move back to China. I still remember this summer, when I was visiting a friend in Beijing, she looked out the window and said, "Oh, it's sunny out." I looked out and saw the sky all grey and foggy, with this tiny ray of sun barely getting through the clouds, the smog, the whatever. I just looked at my friend in disbelief. She said, "Yeah, we Beijingers are pathetic." Now I wish I could take a piece of the blue sky with me when I move back -- to share with my friends and family, to remind me of the beautiful places I've been to. September 07 老船长前两天给以前的老板打了个电话。他刚刚退休,所以我想问候他一声,看看他生活怎么样。 退休前,老船长几十年如一日地坚守着他很重要的新闻岗位,他住的那个州不管除了什么事,都是他调遣手下的10来名记者报道,给全国、甚至全世界供稿。有重大突发新闻和竞选时,老船长都要承担起统领的重担,经常工作到深夜。他做事严谨,对手下要求严格,如果我们业务上哪里做的不好,是免不了受他的批评的。所以他手下的记者,有时难免抱怨。 但我在他手下工作的一年多,虽然紧张、劳累,却学到了很多东西。他给了我很多很多的机会,有重大新闻时从不把我当成新人,而总是信任的交给我一些重要任务。偶尔走运的时候,他会亲自坐到我身边改我的文章,让我又领教了他的实践经验。 老船长虽然严格,却也很有人情味。我第一年拼命加班,想积攒一些overtime好让父母转年来玩。但公司的规定是不可以把假期留到明年的。老板听了我的要求,立刻说他会给我一个破例,还说有多少人的家人在大洋彼岸,说父母来时一定要好好陪他们。 我们看到老船长一心扑在事业上,近几年又是一个人生活,就不免很担心他退休后的日子。那么爱工作的人,能适应呆在家里吗?他有朋友陪他吗?事实证明,我们的担心是多余的。老船长和我的通话中,说他很enjoy退休生活,现在有时间了,每周都能读5本书,中午经常和朋友出去吃饭,每天也会在美丽的Lake Michigan边上散布。他问我身体怎么样、工作怎么样、家人怎么样。聊半个多小时,没听出他一点不对劲的地方,放心的放下电话。 回头想想,真的很佩服老船长。快乐,不在与你工作多气派,陪你的人多多、或者拥有什么;快乐,在于你去了解自己想要的生活,而去追求那种生活;快乐,在于你适应生活中的各种变化,而去把不可能完全控制的生活变成你自己的生活。 老船长,我向你敬礼了! September 06 缅因之行-1 (Maine trip-1)美国劳动节期间去了缅因州,立刻爱上了那里的蓝天、白云、绿树,和那北方特有的清新、凉爽的空气。一个人爬上1100来米(3597feet)高的山,在6个小时里走了10 多公里,一路上只遇到8个登山的人,感到这里不仅是一块自然的净土,也是能让我获取心灵的平静的土地。 此行带给我很多想分享的东西,就先从我结识的人说起吧。
Rodney. 71岁的Rodney和太太把家里的几间房间改造,开了个小小的旅馆。他们的小Bed and Breakfast每年都招待了无数来缅因登山的游客,因为缅因有著名的阿巴拉契亚山trail的最后一段。夫妇俩结婚已经45年,还是和和气气的在一起。女的打点家庭旅店的一切,每早给客人在厨房里准备了早餐(香蕉、cereal、麦片、面包、牛奶、橙汁);男的则在野外作导游,带着游客看野生动物、在河上漂游、或泛舟池塘。
我请Rodney带我去寻找moose(中文好像叫驼鹿),北半球高寒地带特有的一种动物。他带我一整天(11个小时)在野外奔波寻觅,开着他的丰田卡车,走了很多树林深处没有路的地方,有时还要划着双人的小舟,我们看到2头moose,4只海狸、1只大蓝鹭。71岁的他脚步快捷(比我快多了),在茂密的树林、泥泞的草丛中行走就如同在平地上走路,对一片片的树林,就好像他自己的掌心一样熟悉。他带我去的两个deadwater(说是死水,但这水干净清澈,天上的白云、周围的灌木、绿树都一一映在水中)都要经过他精心做了记号的丛林。和他在一起聊天,发现他身上有很多令我羡慕的品质。
Rodney从12岁开始在野外活动。那时他经常和同龄的孩子们一起到林子里去打grouse(威雀?),一走就是一天。他对大自然的热爱,从那时起一发不可收拾。成人后曾经参军,驻德国期间去欧洲多国旅游,但他回美后,选择自己偏爱的缅因乡村定居,现在还住在自己出生的房子里。“Maine beat them all," 他说。
他是典型的那种美国乡村自给自足的居民。退休前他曾在当地的造纸厂(缅因有很多木材业)有着一份固定的工作,退休后除了导游他也做过很多其他自由职业:他曾抓鳗鱼,连夜开车来回于5个他设的鳗鱼网之间,累了就把车停在路边小睡一会。不到鳗鱼后每周和朋友开车22个小时(来回)去纽约的中国城卖鳗鱼。冬天,他一整天一整天地到冰天雪地的野外去捕海狸一类的动物、去拾鹿角等。
附近城镇的人都因为本地工作机会和业余生活的匮乏而渐渐搬走,他们去了更大的城市,去寻找更多的机会。Rodney没有。他还是日复一日,早出晚归,追求着他自给自足,和自然融合的生活。他的选择,带给他艰辛,但也带给他快乐。
The Moose StoryFor some reason, moose hold a special place in my heart.
Maybe it all started in Minnesota one weekend in May. I took a trip with a very special friend to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, a well-known pristine part of the country. There, we heard many moose stories -- some funny, some scary -- over dinner table with people who lived in the area. (My favorite one was how a young man from New York City got a job in the area as a cop, but quickly quit after a couple of moose incidences, including one in which a moose walked over his patrol car and totaled it, leaving him injured. I couldn't help but think the story was made up to mock the "city folks" living on the East Coast, but another part of me believed it completely.)
Today, details of the moose stories have faded, but images of the creature as an elegant, yet adorable animal stayed in my mind. The trip up north also ended up being one of my favorite trips. I still remember the exhilarating three-hour hike through the thick woods in northern Minnesota, where we saw a bear swimming in the lake, heard songbirds for the first time and saw a deer carcass. It was also the last time I traveled before being diagnosed with breast cancer, followed by 14 months of grueling treatment. Now three years later after so many things have happened in my life, the beautiful memories from that trip lie deep in my heart, unscathed.
Unfortunately, I didn't get to see a moose during that trip. But the creature stayed in my life. One of my get-well presents after my surgery was a stuffed moose. After I completed my treatment, I rewarded myself a trip to Alaska, and there in Denali National Park, I saw a female moose. But just as some kids' dream of flying never dies, my fascination with the moose continued. I was just hoping, really hoping, that one day, I'll see a bull moose with its huge antlers.
Over the Labor Day weekend, I went to Maine, which has an estimated moose population of 35,000. So this time, I'm determined to see moose -- the bulls that carry big antlers. My guide told me this is not the best time of the year to see moose, because they've started retreating into the woods as the hunting season soon starts. That doesn't prevent us from trying. Seventy-one-year-old Rodney took me deep into the woods; we went to ponds and waters that used to be frequented by moose in the summer. In the 11 hours we were driving, hiking and canoeing, we saw -- in Rodney's words -- "only two" moose. Both female. The first one ran in front of our pickup as we were driving slowly in the woods. Rodney said the moose was feeding near a small pond but got scared when hearing us. It quickly disappeared into the woods, before I got a good look at it.
But the second one ... it was grand. We were at a pond that Rodney frequented and looked through our binoculars when Rodney decided to go to the other side of the water. There, he stopped, fine-tuned his binoculars and pulled me right in front him so I could look through them. I couldn't believe my eyes. There I saw a beautiful, huge moose, grazing peacefully. It was more beautiful than anything I'd seen. Somehow its eating quietly in the mellow late afternoon sun makes me feel that the whole world is pure and that everything is going to be OK. For the next ten minutes or so, we stooped to walk through tall grass to get closer to the moose without scaring it. Then we decided to just watch it from a distance, quietly. I was completely satisfied.
Maybe the next time I'm in moose country, I'll still go on a search for these beautiful creatures. Maybe I'll search endlessly until I see a bull. But I know deep in my heart, the image of that last moose eating grass will forever be there. In my mind, the picture was pretty close to perfection. August 30 Getting startedFinally, I'm using MSN and this space for blogging. I never liked MSN, but got an account just to see my friend Yan's blogs. Ah, the things you'd do for a friend. :)
But now that everyone else is blogging, I might as well (although the fact that everyone else has a blog doesn't necessarily make it right, fun or cool).
So, this is the beginning of my mumbling rumbling. And we'll see what's to come. |
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